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Builds! Post your project here... show us what you're up to! Please Note: This section is for "Builds" ONLY! |
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#261
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Glen My 29 Essex Build http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34026 Don't give up, it's far too much fun once you can drive it. |
#262
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^^^I agree^^^
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#263
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I'm impressed that a person with your skill set is willing to ask questions and take advice from others. You will end up with a fine hot rod.
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#264
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Thank you for that compliment Bob! I can weld and fabricate but have never built a hot rod from scratch like this. I'm so glad you guys are here to help me thru this. On the other side of the coin is that I find it amazing to have a group of guys like you willing to share their expertise to help me build a better hot rod. Truly means a lot to me!
So....another question! Has to do with the caster again. So my cross member has 7 degrees or so built in the the x-member. At the x-member I have the 7 degrees but on the king pin boss I'm showing about 12. Now this is with the axle hanging from the U bolted x-member. Not on the ground or loaded with weight. I do not have my radius rods connected because I sent them back for a set of longer ones. I feel that with the front end hanging, that the angle is the natural angle. Once loaded it's going to be pushed one way or another and give me a reading not worth anything with out the radius rods in place. So do I ballpark the reading on the x-member, weld er up and then make final adjustments with the radius rods. Pushing or pulling the axle for a max of just a few degrees? Sorry....I'm stuck on this ![]() |
#265
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#266
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Thanks OI!
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#267
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Coup, I can only offer opinions as I have not had to do a front axle like yours yet. I wouldn't weld the x-member in just yet. You could probably pull the axle six or seven degrees of caster with the wishbones, but there would be a lot of binding and wearing on the spring when you were driving the car. Maybe try and find out what the cause of the extra five degrees is and change that. I think the wishbones would twist the axle two or three degrees without any worries.
Good luck, and I hope someone else with some real experience chimes in. |
#268
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NOTE: I am not an expert either.
Axle and radius rods should ideally be level, at ride height with no binding on the spring. The built in caster in the axle should give you what you need. Caster adjustment (+ or -) from there, if needed, could be done by adjusting the angle of the radius rods, without adding much stress to the spring. I would think that the point where the spring attaches to the cross-member should be level at ride height for all this to happen.
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39 Ford PU Build. http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36459 1928 Ford Tudor Build http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?p=538231#post538231 The thing about a '39 Ford pick-up is that that ugly grille kinda' grows on ya' after a while. Not taking anything too seriously. ![]() |
#269
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Thanks for your idea's guys. I cut the 2 forward tacks an slightly changed the angle. I have it at about 7 degrees so the radius rods will only have to push or pull a degree or so. I have the frame now sitting on both the front and rear suspension. Rear coil overs not adjusted or loaded up but the full weight in on both the front and rear. I have 2 ratchet straps connected to the radius rod attachment points to pull it a bit.
I think I'm ok unless I'm really missing something.... |
#270
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Thanks for your idea's guys. I cut the 2 forward tacks an slightly changed the angle. I have it at about 7 degrees so the radius rods will only have to push or pull a degree or so. I have the frame now sitting on both the front and rear suspension. Rear coil overs not adjusted or loaded up but the full weight in on both the front and rear. I have 2 ratchet straps connected to the radius rod attachment points to pull it a bit.
I think I'm ok unless I'm really missing something.... |
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