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  #281  
Old 11-28-2021, 09:44 PM
zzrodder's Avatar
zzrodder zzrodder is offline
It ain't grey hair, it's chrome!
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: The Sunny Okanagan B.C. Canada
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Looks good, every problem has a solution - if it was easy, it would be boring. I may end up with a similar engine mount, that's coming up soon....
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  #282  
Old 11-28-2021, 09:52 PM
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Couper Couper is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Northern NJ
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Thank you. Your right!

Once in a while I get ****ed off and my youngest son who is an awesome builder fabricator says "come-on Dad.... it's only steel!"

Thanks for your help!
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  #283  
Old 11-29-2021, 06:15 PM
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Bamamav Bamamav is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Berry, Alabama
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Engine mount looks plenty strong. My steering box was right where the mount had to be, so I had to build a cross member under the box, then build a triangular mount off the cross member beside the steering box.
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  #284  
Old 11-29-2021, 08:26 PM
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Thanks Bama. Sounds like a good solution.
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  #285  
Old 12-01-2021, 09:29 PM
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Getting closer every night.....
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  #287  
Old 12-02-2021, 10:30 AM
bob w bob w is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Stillwater, MN
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It's too bad y'all are going to cover up most of that fine work.
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  #288  
Old 12-03-2021, 09:49 PM
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Thanks... I'm thinking about hinging my bed floor so I can prop it up to be seen. Or maybe a 5/8 thick sheet of acrylic sheet.... more showy that hot rod but I would llke to show it off.
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  #289  
Old 12-03-2021, 10:22 PM
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Location: Northern NJ
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Default Pan Hard Bar Install

I fabed up a Pan Hard Bar set-up and thought I'd make sure there's nothing wrong with it.

Everything I read told me parallel at ride height, and frame mounted tab on the same side as the steering box / front pan hard bar.

It will be welded to my axle tube and the thru bolts are only to bolt up my 4 link bar ends. And tab's welded on the driver side frame to maintain level.

I wish when I bought the 4 link bars the had adjustable ends on both side. Now I'd have to remove the bolts, jack the pinion end, adjust and slide back in. To go the other way I'd have to put the jack above the pinion and jack down from the frame. Would have been so much easier for adjusting down the road if I would have thought to get both ends adjustable. I'm kinda disappointed the guy I bought them from didn't tell me that. Hopefully I won't have to adjust.

Speaking of adjusting... I made my trans x-member so I could change out shims which are made out of round DOM.

Any thoughts on the Pan Hard set up?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSCF5526.jpg (97.3 KB, 20 views)
File Type: jpg DSCF5529.jpg (106.1 KB, 24 views)
File Type: jpg DSCF5531.jpg (119.5 KB, 24 views)
File Type: jpg DSCF5534.jpg (111.1 KB, 21 views)
File Type: jpg DSCF5535.jpg (116.9 KB, 21 views)
File Type: jpg DSCF5533.jpg (125.5 KB, 21 views)
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  #290  
Old 12-05-2021, 09:10 PM
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Got the frame off the rack today. Moved it to the other side of the garage.

I have very low ceilings in my space so built a boom arm for my engine lift to lift my cab onto the frame.

I have an area at the back of my cab where the original fuel tank was that I reinforced with a piece of 1/8 plate and cap it off with a piece of angle iron. I'll include a picture so you can see what I'm talking about. It has to be strong cause it ties my two sills in.

Turns out my drive shaft will fall right on this plate.... yep just like my motor mount and steering box. LOL

So I have to build a c-notch on that plate. I'm thinking I'd build it out of some rectangular tubing 2x6 or so, unless you guys think 1/2" plate would be good. Second question is alot of the frame c notches I see are triangular versus square. Any direction for me on this?

Thanks guys
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File Type: jpg DSCF5540.jpg (63.9 KB, 10 views)
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