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#121
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() The first REAL Chef I ever worked for used to say heavy when something was hot. He pulled that one on me in the middle of a dinning room full of customers once. ![]() Still hurts just to think about it. ![]() ![]() ![]() Torchie |
#122
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I'll look forward to seeing your header. Despite the effort required to save it, I'd imagine you're fortunate to have a flange to work with...
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- The distinction between psychological illness and creative thinking is wafer thin - 1937 Chevy Coupe 1938 Chevy Sedan Photo Posting and Resizing |
#123
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I might be being over cautious here, but are you planning to bold the flange to a spare head to help prevent warping while welding on the new tubes?
__________________
39 Ford PU Build. http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36459 1928 Ford Tudor Build http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?p=538231#post538231 The thing about a '39 Ford pick-up is that that ugly grille kinda' grows on ya' after a while. Not taking anything too seriously. ![]() |
#124
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Yes Skip, I'll bolt the flange to a cylinder head. The flange is a bit over 1/2" thick but even that can distort when heated.
Been grinding away with the die grinder and a drill motor. Getting harder all the time. Then a light bulb went off. The tubes are stainless steel and the bits are getting very dull. A magnet sticks to the flange plate so I shouldn't have any trouble welding the new steel primary tubes to it. In the second pic you can see the original tube remnant that has to be removed. Tried to nip most of it out with a cutting torch but SS doesn't respond well to the gas wrench. The third pic shows a properly ground out hole with the tube remnant and weld removed. Last edited by bob w; 11-22-2020 at 08:06 PM. |
#125
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I take a hole saw and cut a filler plug that fits in the original hole and tack weld it to the remaining piece of exhaust pipe then, take the correct size hole saw and cut the remaining pipe out.
You automatically have the center with the hole that is in the plug. |
#126
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Good suggestion, OI. I had thought about doing something like that but figured the stainless steel and the weld bead would be too tough for my hole saw blades.
Today I put the 406 sbc that was in the Crosley on the stand. It's going in the Bantam to replace the Big Block that was in it. I sold th Big Block. Figured I'd freshen it up a bit. Want to check cam wear, replace valve springs, etc. I just bought a leak down tester so I tried it out. Sadly, I heard hissing in the pan on some of the cylinders so it probably needs rings and a cylinder honing. Looks like it will be torn down to the bare block. |
#127
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Picked up a pretty nice set of Hooker Competition headers that fit a Chevelle. Found them on Facebook Marketplace. Looks like they'll work on the Bantam
Measured very carefully and clamped the wishbone mounts in place. Welding at 11:00 That's all. |
#128
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How do you work on so many projects at once?
It hurts my head trying to get one together mentally and financially. Looks great all around.
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POPS '48-'52 WILLYS LONG CAB '52 WILLYS JEEP PICK UP '47 DODGE SHOP TRUCK '48 DODGE PILOT HOUSE RAT ![]() ![]() |
#129
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__________________
Glen My 29 Essex Build http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34026 Don't give up, it's far too much fun once you can drive it. |
#130
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In answer to a couple comments: sometimes I get a little stale on a project and rather than doing nothing, I switch gears and put in some effort on another project.
I got some welding done today. Almost finished with the cleanup on the header flange too. Looked in my stack of stuff for some short shocks. Nothing there. Decided to use friction shocks so I wacked some plates out of 1/8" thick aluminum. The mounting plates are 1/8" steel plate. Will use some cork sheet I have for the friction material. Have to buy some heim joints for the links to the axle. |
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